Sunday, February 23, 2014

West Coast Trail, Part II: The Slog

Second installment of the West Coast Trail.  Or should I say the Wet Coast Trail….     Some Germans we met on Day 2 coming from the opposite direction had only this message as what to expect ahead:  “Life will be hard”.    And full of rain, and mud, and endless ladders.  Unfortunately, making life even harder was that 2 out of our 3 stoves malfunctioned on the first day, and the fuel types were not compatible.   But enough complaining for now.

When we last left the merry group they had just started on the 75 km trek from Bamfield to Port Renfrew.  As one savvy blog-reader pointed out, Rod decided to show his independence on Day 1 in the group photo being the only one to leave his gators off (“I don't need no stinkin' gators.  My shins aren't afraid of a little mud, the rest of you are clearly just a bunch of Lagerfeuer-1.Reihe-Sitzer”.  This is a first-class German girly-man insult if I do say so myself Mehmet!  It means people-who-sit-in-the-first-row-around-the-campfire – I am definitely among them.)   Rod decided that gators were a good choice after all from Day 2 onwards.  But I digress.

The first 10 km or so to the Pachena Point Lighthouse were fairly flat and uneventful and we managed a good pace.  Over lunch however the skies clouded over and the first rain drops started falling.  Raincoats and pack covers on!

Dev was battling two severe ear infections and the end of a pink eye infection even on Day 1.  Here he shows off his backpack-pharmacy. 

No one wanted to damage their camera during the ensuing deluge which lasted a constant 4 days save for a 1 hour sunny respite on Day 3.    Here are a few shots which were snuck during short breaks in the rain.    I did enjoy the coast, the rocks, the ocean, and walking along the beach.  The treed sections (unavoidable due to the tides) were painfully slow however and filled with ankle-to-knee-deep mud pits.   I started off as a “Matsch-Vermeider” (mud avoider, another good German girly-man insult), but inevitably stopped caring after stepping around the first few dozen.


Camping on the beach!  Unfortunately the wood was too wet to have a campfire.

Puddles like this one were typical…like every 10 metres!  For anyone looking to buy waterproof hiking boots, based on our combined group experience those with the full-leather boots (including the tongue) fared the best.  Unfortunately I belonged to the 2nd camp which had leather boots with a Gore-Tex tongue which were pretty much soaked through (despite the gators) on Day 2.

Taking a break on a nice long bench big enough for all 6 of us!  Rod is not impressed.

The forecast posted at Carmanah Pt. Lighthouse on Day 4.  Only more rain in sight…

Buoys were always a welcome sight since it meant we had reached camp.

There were lighter moments of course though!   Everyone feels better with a hot meal in their bellies and Leah enjoys a little air-guitar.     

We also passed the time trash-talking one another, where one of our favourites was the face joke.  E.g. Dev:  “I hate these mud pits”, me: “You’re a mud pit”, Dev:  “Your face is a mud pit”.

Day 3 we took a welcome break out of the rain at the Nitinat Narrows ferry crossing.   I had the best baked potato of my life, smothered in butter and accompanied by fresh, BBQ salmon. 
Later that afternoon we were also rewarded with a short 1 hour of blue sky.  We took the opportunity to do silly poses and ham it up.

The thrill of many ladders, cable cars, and bridges in various stages of disrepair. 
\

Getting ready loading into our first cable car

A long way to haul yourself over, but kind of fun too!


I forgot to give photo credits in the last post, but thanks to Kiran and Rod who contributed the vast majority of the West Coast Trail pics!

More adventures and better weather to come in the next post.  Plus I actually change out of that smelly pink shirt which everyone must be sick of by now!

Thursday, February 06, 2014

West Coast Trail, Part I

First installment of the long-delayed West Coast Trail pictures!   The journey actually starts before beginning the trail itself.  There were a few logistics to take care of getting from Vancouver (actually Alberta for most of the crew) to the West coast of Vancouver Island.   Flights for some, a ferry ride for Rod and I, followed by a re-group in Duncan and a massive re-pack for the Albertans.  I’ve never seen so much trail mix, beef jerky, tent bits, Gore-Tex everything, and duct tape laid out before.

Next was an early morning drive across-island to Port Renfrew followed by a bumpy bus 5 hour ride along a logging road to Bamfield.   We tossed the disc a little at Pachena Bay trail head, did our trail orientation (“never turn your back to the ocean”) and hung out on the beach enjoying the sunshine.  I hoped I wouldn’t screw up the tide tables during the hike.

We stayed the night in relative comfort at a Bamfield guest house.   A little expensive for what you got, but it was wonderful to have a real bed, burgers for dinner, and the novelty of a sink toilet (recycles the water used to wash your hands in order to flush the toilet).

One upside to our Bamfield accommodation was that it was within walking distance to the breathtaking Brady beach.  It did not disappoint with a magnificent sunset and views of the ocean and surrounding mountains (see title photo and below).
Bamfield

To get around Bamfield you need to take a “water taxi” ($5 per person) from one shore to the other.   I think “water canoe”would be more appropriate!

How could I resist Catastrophe Manor?

Practicing my Tsunami evacuation sprint…hopefully it won’t be necessary for the trail ahead.

After a hearty breakfast the next morning we were off!  Here we are Day 1 all clean, and dry, and happy!   From the left:  Leah, Jason, Jayanti, Rod, Kiran and Dev.   Stay tuned for more…. 

Monday, January 06, 2014

Wedgemount Lake, BC


Happy new year!  The last five months of 2013 were exciting times for me with multi-day hikes (this one as well as the West Coast Trail) and a trip to India/Nepal.  I’ll try to be brief with my next few entries so that we can get to exotic southern Asia pictures sooner. 

This hike up to the lovely turquoise Wedgemount Lake was one of the tougher ones I’ve done with an elevation gain of 1200+ metres in 7 km.   I set out with Rod and his cousins, who were doing it as a daytrip.    If you do attempt this hike be careful of the numerous ground wasps which got Rod, one cousin and I.  Ouch!

The way up is quite the grind (especially with a heavy pack) and not too spectacular scenery-wise, but you’re rewarded at the top with views of the beautiful glacial-fed lake in the shadow of the massive Wedge mountain, the highest in the Garibaldi mountain range. 


The BC Mountaineering Club has built a great little hut up on Wedge.  It was windier that it looks in the evening and we had to go inside to keep our cooking flame from going out!  The numerous tent platforms are also a godsend (do you see the size of the rocks lying around?). 

Dinner went smoothly although someone forgot to bring the J-cloths for doing dishes and decided to sacrifice his clean underwear instead.

And more lovely views of the surrounding glaciers, wildflowers, and sunset.  

In the middle of winter here in Vancouver I definitely miss this sunshine.

It was tough to leave Wedge, but even tougher on the knees and quads going down the mountain.  The only thing worse than a steep 1200 metres going up is the same 1200 metres going down….  It seriously took me a week for my quads to recover and to do stairs without looking like an elderly lady. 

Monday, October 28, 2013

Panorama Ridge, BC


More hiking photos from an epic 32 km daytrip, 1500+ metres elevation gain to Panorama Ridge and back.  Last year I hiked Black tusk (the black jutting peak in the title photo, now an extinct volcano) and decided to do nearby Panorama this year which offers some great views of the tusk as well as the perfectly turquoise Garibaldi Lake.   If people are only able to do one hike in the Whistler area it should be this one.  It’s even featured on the front of the SW-BC-hiking bible 103 Hikes.  Thanks to Rod for most of these shots!

The hike begins with 6 km of somewhat tedious switchbacks.  I look somewhat tentative knowing what is ahead.  


We crossed paths with lots of beginner backpackers coming down the trail with fun low-tech water bottles made from 2L coke bottles, as well as some I felt badly for without compression sacs for their sleeping bags which they carried in large garbage bags in their arms (for ~9+ km each way!)

Lunch stop at picturesque Garibaldi Lake.  I didn’t get any pictures but we shared a picnic table with some friendly Persian men who hauled a veritable feast uphill with pickled eggs, fruit, olives, tabouleh, hummus, etc. all in glass containers!  They felt sorry for us with our squished sandwiches and kept trying to offer us their food.

Onto the relatively flat meadows with lots of wildflowers, inviting curving forest paths, and wide open valleys.

Then comes the tougher scramble up Panorama Ridge.    The vegetation starts to thin to rocks and then it’s a slog up some snow.   Snow is so much more enjoyable sliding on the way down. 

Close to the top!   The tusk is at roughly the same elevation as Panorama Ridge and this is the best/closest viewpoint of it.

Finally over the ridge and we are rewarded with an amazing view of Garibaldi Lake (our lunch stop) far below.  The water is an unbelievable blue you have to see to believe (no adjustment of colours in these photos!).

It's a long hike back down, but we reward ourselves with pizza and beers at Howe Sound brewery in Squamish.